Visiting Bulgaria’s Top Site: A Half Day at Rila Monastery

Every visitor to Bulgaria should go to Rila Monastery. As the country’s most visited attraction and a cultural icon which used to feature on the 1 lev note, you’d think that the Monastery would be overrated. In our opinion, its reputation is very much well-deserved: the detail of the central church’s exterior really has to be seen in-person!

Originally founded in the 10th century CE nestled into the Rila mountains, the Monastery is dedicated to the famous Bulgarian hermit, Ivan, who lived in a nearby cave. The complex was renovated and expanded in the subsequent years of Bulgarian royal rule, until it was largely destroyed by fire in the 19th century. Following reconstruction work in the 19th century, to when the frescos largely date, the complex also acted as a hideout for various national revolutionaries who sought to liberate Bulgaria from Ottoman rule. 

Today, the Monastery is a protected site and remains an active monastery. When we visited, there were only 6 monks in residence, in the closed-off upper areas visitors can’t enter. As a result, despite being quite a popular site, the atmosphere in the complex is very peaceful and feels almost remote, with the forests and mountains in the background.

We visited for half a day, and felt that the time was just about right. That said, you can easily expand your visit if you have time, both within the Monastery complex and in nearby areas. Here’s our overview of how to get to the Monastery, what you should see inside the complex, and options for other things to do nearby.

Duration: 30 mins–1 hour.
Price (per person): Free.
Must-see/Skippable: Must-see.

This building is really what you came to see. The Church is the famous red-and-white stripe building you’ve seen everywhere, including at the top of this itinerary and elsewhere on our site. As soon as you’ve passed through the complex’s main gate, you’ll be met immediately by the Church and its incredible frescos.

From the inside, the Church is not too remarkable. If you’ve seen a few Orthodox churches, there will be no real surprises here. That said, do look out for the various relics of Bulgarian saints on display, including the famous Ivan’s, and the tomb of Boris III, one of Bulgaria’s kings.

Much more interesting is the outside. In addition to five domes, the Church’s exterior  is heavily decorated. The upper levels are painted in striking red and white stripes, while the lower levels and roofs feature striking frescos. It’s definitely worth spending some time taking a look at these paintings . They are really fascinating and depict not just some Biblical scenes and saints whose relics are inside the church, but also a pretty explicit depiction of Judgement Day. 

However, you have to follow rules while here, written in various places in the complex. In particular, you should: cover your shoulders and knees; be relatively quiet; not enter the upstairs residential areas; and not smoke, eat, or drink anywhere inside the complex. Within the Church and other buildings, the rules are tightened: you also should not take photos, keep hands in pockets, wear hats, or touch icons and relics with your hands (you should only kiss them). 

Duration: 30 mins–1 hour.
Price (per person): €4.50.
Must-see/Skippable: Skippable.

If you have time and energy, you can also visit the complex’s museums, which all charge for entrance separately. We only went inside the Church History Museum, a collection of church manuscripts, robes, and treasures, and were glad we did so.

By far the best item is Rafail’s Cross, a wooden crucifix carved at the turn of the 19th century by a single monk using magnifying lenses in excruciating detail. Rafail is famous for spending over twelve years on this task, before going blind. So, it’s a pretty unique item!

The Museum is to the right behind the Church. Note that during the off-season (October–May), the Museum closes at 16:30, a few hours earlier than the complex’s closing time of 19:30. During peak season (June–September), the Museum and complex both close at 19:30.

Pictures aren’t allowed in the Museum, so sadly we can. Instead, you can check the official website, which has a few images showing what to expect inside, and the University of Bologna’s art site, which has Open Access black-and-white photos of Rafail’s Cross.

Duration: 30 mins–1 hour.
Price (per person): €3.50 each, or €12 combined.
Must-see/Skippable: Skippable.

With more time, you can try out the other museums and buildings in the complex. These are: the Icon Gallery (€2.50), a collection of Orthodox church icons and monks’ portraits; Hrelo Tower (€2.50), a 14th-century tower with some historical displays; or the Ethnographic Museum (€2.50), a collection of traditional Bulgarian items. We were not as interested in the Gallery and Ethnographic Museum, especially given our limited time, and visitors could not go to the top of the Tower when we were there, so that made our decision to visit only the Church History Museum much easier.

If you do decide to go to one or more of these buildings, whether you also go to the Church History Museum, you can buy a combined ticket granting you entry into all sites.

Hrelo Tower

Duration: 10 mins–1 hour.
Price (per person): €1–25.
Must-see/Skippable: Skippable.

Given the length of the journey between the Monastery, Sofia, and other nearby points of interest, you’ll probably want to grab some food or drink. If you planned ahead, you might have brought something with you (but remember: you can’t eat in the complex itself!) or stopped at a service station on the way. If you’re driving, our guide also recommended Magic of Rila (Магията на Рила), which is 10 minutes away from the Monastery on the way from/to Sofia and apparently serves good-value Bulgarian food. 

We did neither. Instead, we went behind the complex to the small food area, where you have various stalls and a restaurant (“Valyavitsa” Rila monastery, “Валявица” Рилски манастир) set against the backdrop of the Rila Mountains. Most people come for the Bakery, which serves traditional pastries and the very tasty buffalo yoghurt.

Sticky Rice had some fresh donuts while Scone had a coffee from one of the ever-present coffee machines. Both were really great, and we left very happy! Do save a bit of time to take a look around this area, as it will probably be a fairly long way to your next stop, whether Sofia, Melnik, or another place.

Want to see something else before or after Rila Monastery? You have quite a lot of options.

The most popular combinations are visiting the Monastery with side trips to either the Boyana Church in Sofia or to the Rila Mountains to see the Seven Rila Lakes . There are numerous tour packages that allow you to package these things together, with Traventuria offering the most cost-effective and best value options.

For a smaller, less visited option, you could go to the Cave of St Ivan of Rila (Пещерата на Св. Йоан Рилски), where the dedicatee of the Monastery lived for 7 years. The Cave is around 4KM from Rila Monastery, so you could walk, drive, or pick a tour package which includes this option. Again, Traventuria can help you here. The route is apparently not too hard, but is largely uphill through the woods. At the top, there’s a little church and holy spring. 

While we wish we could have seen the Cave, we were very happy with our choice to go to Melnik first, where we saw the dramatic Sand Pyramids, pretty sandstone cliffs looming over Bulgaria’s smallest town, and try some of the famous local wine. You can read about our experiences in our Melnik guide here. If you’re driving, you could always replace Melnik’s Pyramids with the Stob Pyramids (Стобски пирамиди), which are closer to the Monastery but have a minimal €1 entrance fee. However, we strongly recommend the Melnik Tour, as it gives you the most options.

That wraps up our short trip to the beautiful Rila Monastery. Have you been before? Did you enjoy the complex? What did you do for the rest of your day? Let us know in the comments below! We’d love to hear about what else we can do the next time we’re in the area.

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